July 21, 2005.
Joyce’s birthday was just the day before, and we celebrated by
driving some 500 miles from St. Paul, Minnesota (where we’d visited quite a few
sites related to F. Scott Fitzgerald), to Hastings, Nebraska, about forty miles
north of Red Cloud, the girlhood home of Willa Cather. My journal reminds me that
after supper that evening we went to see a film in Hastings—Wedding Crashers. In my journal I wrote:
much funnier than I thought it was going
to be, though juvenile, of course. Well, I have a weakness for the juvenile in films, a weakness Joyce
tolerates (usually) and has not yet learned to celebrate.
In Red Cloud the next morning, we went on a tour of some sites in
town (Cather’s home, the homes of friends, and the like), then drove around
Webster County looking for (and finding!) the many markers that the Willa Cather
Pioneer Memorial and Education Foundation had placed around to commemorate/mark
sites that were significant in her life and fiction. Many of the roads are dirt
and traverse cornfields that come right to the edge of the roads. There were
times we could see nothing but tall corn to our right and left, a rough dirt
road in front and behind. We rarely saw another vehicle of any sort and felt,
in a way, as if we were scrolling through some dream about the nineteenth century.
Once, we lost our way, but I knew that the roads were laid out
like a piece of graph paper, so I merely checked the sun (oh, you former Boy
Scout, you!) and headed east, where the nearest highway was—US 281. Found it
quickly. (I should note that this was in the days before we had GPS.)
One of the sites I most dearly wanted to see was the old Pavelka
farm, where “Ántonia” had lived. We acquired a brochure in town (Willa Cather Pioneer Memorial—$1), which
is driver’s guide to the area, and off we headed in search of the sites. The “Pavelka
farmstead” (as it’s now called) belongs to the Willa Cather State Historic
Site.
When we arrived—after viewing the grave of Annie Pavelka (who died
in 1955)—we found the place looking abandoned but with some signs of restoration
efforts going on. The site was very remote, very rural. We turned into the
driveway, got out of the car, took some pictures of the house, outbuildings,
terrain.
Then I wondered aloud: Do
you think we can get inside? We walked over to the rear entrance and saw it
was not locked but was secured only by a piece of building block. Easy to move
out of the way … should I?
Red Cloud, Neb. |
Cemetery. Bladen, Neb., where Annie Pavelka lies. |
Pavelka farmstead. |
Note the building block near my feet. |
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